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2024.02.07 21:02


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Brette Harrington’s Love Affair with the Chinese Puzzle Wall

Brette Harrington and Marc-André Leclerc were the first to climb the stunning granite wall. After Leclerc died, Harrington kept going back.

Chris Kalman

How Dangerous Should We Let Bouldering Be?

James Lucas

How Did This Climber Get Away with So Much for So Long?

Annette McGivney

“That isn’t for Black People”: A Conversation on Climbing’s Diversity Problem

Indigo Johnson

How a Climber With Parkinson’s Launched a Movement

Lauren Manfuso

Editor's Picks

How Climbing Gyms Lost Their Soul

How Ukrainian Climbers Traded Mountains For War

Editor's Picks

Major Accident and Dramatic Rescue in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison

The Free Soloist Who Fell to Earth

Latest

Gear

Patagonia’s Cragsmith 45L is the Ultimate Sport Climbing Pack

A longtime favorite in the Patagonia line, the Cragsmith (which comes in 32L and 45L) has gotten some updates.

Steven Potter Published Feb 2, 2024 Videos

Weekend Whipper: Crumbly Rock + Slab = Bad Time

“I guess the lesson learned is: Can never be too careful on runout slab.”

Climbing Staff Published Feb 2, 2024 Technique

Lynn Hill’s Tips For Dyno Success

Think you're too short to make the move, then heed the advice from a world-class climber who stands just over five feet tall.

Lynn Hill Published Feb 1, 2024 Places

The El Cap-Sized First Ascent in Remote Greenland

Six climbers spent 65 days in Greenland, first kayaking hundreds of kilometers then climbing 'Sea Barge Circus' (VI 5.11+; 900m) over 20 days.

Jacob Cook Published Feb 1, 2024 News

The NPS Wants to Ban Wilderness Climbing. Here’s What That Means.

If the National Park Service and U.S. Forest Service proposals pass, fixed anchors in wilderness will be considered illegal unless granted special permission.

Steven Potter Updated Jan 31, 2024 Gym Climbing

How Climbing’s Culture of Blind Trust Led to Sexual Abuse

If there had been established norms of boundaries, reporting, and education during my childhood, Alex Fritz wouldn't have had the opportunity or access to exploit me.

Cameron Mason Published Jan 30, 2024 News

American Climbs the World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route

Kevin Lindlau has made the first repeat of a D16 route in Italy, solidifying the lofty grade.

Anthony Walsh Published Jan 29, 2024 Places

6 Stunning Moderate Climbs for Your First Trip to the Alps

Ready to climb in the Alps, but don't know where to start? Don't miss these six multi-pitch routes—all between 5.8 and 5.11.

Samantha MacIlwaine Published Jan 29, 2024 News

USA Climbing Plans to Build a National Training Center. Gym Owners Are Pissed.

“There’s a pretty strong consensus from gym owners that the business side of this just doesn’t make any sense, and USA Climbing is going to bankrupt [themselves].”

Delaney Miller Published Jan 29, 2024 News

Access Fund Announces Heather Thorne as New Executive Director

Thorne is a climber of 30 years and has decades of experience as a strategic and collaborative leader.

Access Fund Updated Jan 27, 2024 See All

Training

The Training Bible: A Complete One-Year Training Plan

This eight-phase (12-month) training series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous one.

Editors’ Picks

The Secret to Training Endurance? Ditch the Rope. 5 Training Myths That Are Probably Hurting You Are Most Climbers Getting Fingerboard Training Wrong? (Part 1) View More

Technique

Moving Fast Means Climbing More: Alex Honnold’s Favorite Efficiency Tricks

Honnold is famous for (among other things) cramming as much climbing as he can into each day. To do so, he's developed some efficiency tricks that the rest of us can imitate.

Editors’ Picks

7 Tricks for Speedy Swaps at Multi-pitch Belays The Power in a “PSATTTTTTTT!” The Three Things I Wish I’d Been Told as a Beginning Climber View More

Longreads

Ripcord: A Story of Fame, Love, and Tragedy

The void swallowed him alive, his streaking form more easily imagined than described. The air froze in my chest.

Editors’ Picks

A Remembrance of My Favorite Crag Dog How Ukrainian Climbers Traded Mountains For War Guidebooks Are Still a Problem

Weekend Whippers

Weekend Whipper: Ice Soloist Lets Go of Both Axes and Decks. (He Lives.)

There are two miracles in this week's whipper: 1) He survived. 2) He caught the fall on video.

Editors’ Picks

Weekend Whipper: Falling Ice Causes Upside-Down Gear Ripper Weekend Whipper: Elvis Leg + Indecision = Upside-Down Ground Fall Our Top 10 Weekend Whippers of 2021, From Harrowing to Hilarious View More

Gear

How To Choose, Fit, And Break In Rock Shoes

Stop wasting your money on shoes that don't fit or are painful or fail you. Don't be disappointed again. Here's how to buy what' just right, just for you.

Editors’ Picks

Resoling and Shoe-Care 101 Want Your Cams to Last Forever? Here’s How How to Choose the Perfect All-Around Rock Shoe for You View More

People

What Ever Happened to Mason Earle?

When one of the world’s best crack climbers was grounded by chronic fatigue syndrome, his life became an uphill struggle just to feel human again.

Editors’ Picks

My Dinner With Anderl Heckmair—Leader of Eiger North Face FA Are You a “Crag Boss”—and if So, Which Type? The First Woman to Send 5.14b, 5.14c, and 5.14d/15a No Longer Feels the Need to Climb View More

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Our Most Popular Article

They Climbed On a Home Depot Rope—Thought A Real Rope Was Too Expensive

They figured they knew enough about climbing to wing it, but took a dangerous risk that could have cost them.

Kevin Corrigan Published Feb 7, 2024

During my senior year of high school, my friends and I were bored. We decided we collectively knew enough about climbing for it to be safe. We went to the local outfitter and bought harnesses, carabiners, and belay devices, but we scoffed at the price of a rope. It was way outside our budget. Instead, we went to Home Depot and bought 100 feet of poly cord that was rated for 200 pounds. We climbed on that rope all day, just easy 5.3 climbing on toprope. I’ve included a couple photos. It wasn’t until I was lowering at the end of the day that I realized what a mistake I’d made. The 100-foot rope had stretched to about 200 feet, shrinking to the size of 8mm cord. I bought a real climbing rope the following week. Wanted to share because we are all new at some point and even with the best intentions mistakes are made. We should collectively work together to improve safety across the sport. I wish someone would have stopped us from climbing on that poly rope.
—Kyle Harris, via email

LESSON: Modern climbing ropes include a number of climber-friendly features. They can hold thousands of pounds of force. They have durable sheaths that prevent abrasion and cutting. They have the ideal amount of stretch to catch a fall softly, and then bounce back to their original length and diameter. They’re supple and easy to tie and untie. They’re tested to meet rigorous safety standards. And they work great with modern belay devices. A random hardware store rope is not designed with any of these goals in mind, and can’t be expected to meet them. Always use proper climbing gear designed and rated for climbing.

Want more? Check out more installments in our ever-growing hall of shame: 

Lucky He Didn’t Die. Lowered From a Toy Carabiner

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